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Sunday, December 28, 2014

Fashion in 1953 /1954

1953 ushered in a mood of sleek, slender elegance — at once young and sophisticated. Hemlines, waistlines and hairlines all grew shorter. Buzzwords at the time were “shape” and “sheen.”
The waistline relaxed from the hipped tiny span that accompanied the full silhouette of the two previous years. The semi-fitted suit with a narrow jacket very slightly indented at the waist and the form-fitting sheath dress were introduced. Many dresses were beltless, although wide sashes and draped cummerbunds were popular.
Skirt lengths aroused world-wide controversy in the media. Beginning the year at an average height of 13 inches above the ground, they suddenly rose to 14 to 15 1/2 inches from the floor.
This was typical of fashion though. The hemline gradually moved up one inch per year every five years and then it moved back down and started all over again.
The “Italian” haircut, covering the head in short layered locks and with carefully casual tendrils brushed forward around the face was the successor to the shorter, curlier “poodle” cut.
Woman Wearing Fur Stole (1953)
Woman Wearing Fur Stole (1953)
Young women continued to wear crinoline petticoats under extra-full skirts and clasped their waists with wide leather belts or cummerbunds.
The form fitting silhouette was softened by distinct bulk at the top, by a back-flaring profile line and by necklines opened wide in a cuff or fold around the throat and chest. Those wide open necklines were filled in with multiple strands of pearls or soft scarves.
Slacks at home were tapered to the leg like Edwardian trousers, long shorts were tailored of fine flannel. Bathing suits were either seductively molded to the figure or made like little girl rompers.
Accessories were sumptuous, frivolous and alluring. Very bare shoes with jeweled heels, toes or instep bands were a colorful addition to evening clothes. The most typical and universal accessory was the stole, which was work with suits, dresses and evening clothes. They were long and wide and made of cotton, wool, silk or fur.
Large hoop earrings were a big deal in 1953.
The natural look of makeup had one important exception in the vogue for the doe-eye. A fine penciled line edging the entire eye and extending in a slant to the corner, the elongated eye enjoyed great popularity.
Norman Hartnell designs Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation gown.

Fashion in 1954

Fashion changes seemed to be following a seven year pattern as the dynasty of the full skirt and tiny waist had come to an end. 1954 wanted a prominent, pointed bosom and a straighter, softer silhouette.
Many U.S designers featured relaxed waistlines, placed less importance on the bust and placed belts, sashes and drapery at the hip. The intent was to give the appearance of a longer torso.
Dior presented the H-line, which had a silhouette relatively straight from shoulder to hip. His designs were strikingly different, raising the bust nearly two inches.
1954 fashion was marked by a subtle, elegant mood. Soft and often brightly colored, high quality fabric was in high demand.
The costume look was in full swing in 1954. Coats nearly always came with matching dresses and jacket costumes were accompanied by specially designed overblouses. Jackets came in varied lengths, with shortest a bosom-high bolero and the longest was aptly named the “skyscraper jacket,” designed by Ben Zuckerman.
Some necklines rose in the front, but dropped to almost nonexistence on evening dresses. The jumper became just as important as the blouse and skirt. Slacks were shorter and shorts were longer. Long sweaters were worn over skirts and pants.
Longer necklines and colored beads made costume jewelry heavier and more noticeable than it had been for several years.
Hats remained small, but would do a number of things to form a pronounced, uneven shape. Some hats would come to a point, while others might shoot out in the back. Fur was another accessory that saw a resurgence, back from its own seven-year lull.
Irish linen and silk were easily the two most desirable fabrics in 1954. Now that Irish linen had been made wrinkle-resistant, it was even more sought after than before.
High fashion had not quite adopted the so-called miracle fabrics, but everyday people loved to wear Orlon sweaters.
Prints enjoyed their own comeback, with people sporting patterns on all kid of fabrics like cotton, organdy and silk.
Popular colors in 1954 include ivory, Celadon (a greenish color), blue and pink. People also loved paisley and plaid, but in exciting new color combinations. Brown was the most popular basic hue.

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